| The DIY Underwater Camera House | |
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This camera house was sepcificly designed for a Sony PD-150. Here is a link to a video made with this housing. If you have any questions you can email me at chesterdog1@gmail.com |
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-The main body of the case is a 8"OD x 14" high temperature fiberglass boat exhaust pipe. I got it from a local marine supply and cost around $80. I had to apply more resin, flatten the ends, and paint it. The handles are replacement drill handles, and the handle bracket it made out of aluminum. By taking a flat bar of aluminum and bending it over a rail road tie I was able to shape out the curve of the case. |
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| Here on the inside you can see that there is another aluminum plate on the top of the inside. This was a renforcement of the fiberglass where the handle bracket mounts. The cable on the bottom right is S-video, the red and blue terminals are for the battery that powers the monitor, and the 1/8" phone plug is for remote control. The remote control cable runs to that black box toward the end of the case. In that box I have a circuit board from a LANC controller. I got the remote from ebay for $25, you can find it if you search LANC controller. I sottered wires onto where the switches were and ran the wire out of the case to the two black boxes that are mounted on the handle braket. In the boxes I have the switches. I have a photo of how I water proofed them, I'll upload that later. | |
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| Here is the front plate. The two blocks hold the camera mounting plate in place. I orginaly started with a flat plexiglass disk. But since it wasn't thick enough it bent when the laches were applied. I had to double the thickness. I also decided to put in a dome instead of a flat port. Just search Dome Ports if you want to find out why I used a dome instead of a flat port. I ordered it from Global Plasic Services. The two orgianal front and back plates were actualy two cast acrylic glued togeather. If you are working with plexiglass get Weld On to glue acrylic to to acryclic.You can see that the gasket (from Greingers) sits a on little step. One of the disks that was glue to the other was slightly smaller so we could put the gasket on it. I was not happy with the orignal disks that I ordered form a local glass supply. There were not perfectly round. I had to grind them down on certain parts to make it all fit. So the second time around when I needed to make it thicker I cut the plexiglass myself. It used a router with just a cutting bit on it, I made a circle guide, mounted it in the center and cut away. | |
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| This is a picture of the back plate, The brass strip in the photo is to hold the back plate on. This side of the tube is sealed with a gakset and silicon. | |
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| The laches are from Reid Supply, they're stainless steal. I was extreamly happy with them, although they are not adjustable, there is large room for error in placeing them becasue they are spring loaded so the tension is relativly similar regardless of where you place them (within reason of course). | |